Posts Tagged 'sustainability'



Compost and worm farms: it’s all good news (Part 1)

Compost is one of the most valuable resources you can make for your garden. From small potted gardens to large backyards a worm farm will give you concentrated fertilisers suitable for all types of gardens.

The benefits are a long list of great news for the environment and will save you money in the process.

Benefits of composting

  • Less rubbish in landfill
  • Less methane production (a potent greenhouse gas)
  • Free fertiliser for your garden
  • Improves water retention of sandy soils
  • Improves drainage in clay soils
  • Prevents surface crusting of silty soils
  • Increases aeration in compacted soils
  • Keeps soils cooler in summer and warmer in winter
  • Gardens requiring less watering
  • Is useful as a fertiliser, a soil conditioner and as a mulch
  • Recycle your kitchen scraps
  • Recycle your grass clippings, garden prunings and autumn leaves
  • Recycle your newspapers, egg cartons, toilet rolls and pizza boxes

Getting your compost balance right

All compost bins, or heaps, should lie on a soil base and need a balance of materials that:

  • are high in nitrogen (eg blood and bone, chicken manure)
  • contain carbon (eg dried leaves, shredded newspaper)
  • contain both carbon and nitrogen (eg kitchen scraps, pea straw and green garden prunings).

A well-balanced compost consists of two materials – wet and dry, green and brown or fresh and dead.

Dry / brown / dead material includes: shredded newspaper, autumn leaves, pea straw, shredded cardboard, dry manure (but not cat or dog manure), or even a couple of shovels of garden soil.

Wet / green / fresh material includes: kitchen scraps, green leaves, garden clippings, coffee grounds, tea bags, fresh manure and grass clippings.

The proportions aren’t crucial, but generally for each bucket of wet material, it’s important to add a bucket and a half of dry material.

Fixing composting problems

Avoid putting in compost: animal meats and fats, dairy products, animal manure, glossy magazines, bones, diseased plants, weed seeds

If too wet or smelly add more dry or brown materials and allow the compost to aerate by turning it over.

If too dry or not generating much heat it may need more wet or green materials.

Read Part 2 of compost and worm farms: it’s all good news.

- Marta Lett

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Build your own no-dig garden

Ever wanted to grow your own herbs or veggies? Does the idea of digging up a patch of your yard seem like too much hard work?

Well, check this out. You can build a no-dig garden bed on top of your lawn, paved or concreted area, in a styrofoam box or even on top of an old bed base.

No-dig gardening involves layering clean, organic materials that will literally compost around your plants as they grow. A no-dig garden transforms an infertile area into a productive nutrient rich organic harvest.

Benefits of a no-dig garden or raised garden bed:

  • They’re easy to build (a morning’s work)
  • They’re virtually maintenance free
  • They mirror nature to create a rich, organic environment for your plants
  • They can be built anywhere, anytime to any design

This type of gardening uses layers of newspaper, compost, straw, lucerne hay, and manure above the ground as a bed for plants rather than planting them in the soil.

No-dig garden beds can be built on:

  • Bare soil or lawn areas
  • Concrete areas with a lining of bricks for drainage
  • Raised beds (literally old bed bases used as raised garden beds for easy access for elderly, disabled or sensible gardeners)

Creating your no-dig garden

Select a sunny spot for your no-dig garden bed. If you wish, you can make a border with old timber. To start the layers:

  1. First put down a thick layer (1.5cm) of loose, overlapping newspapers and soak with a hose. If the base is rock, concrete or hard clay, put down a 5-7cm layer of old leaves, small sticks or pieces of seaweed before the newspaper.
  2. Then a layer of lucerne about the same thickness. Soak with a hose.
  3. Sprinkle a thin layer of organic fertilizer like blood and bone, dry poultry manure or compost over the lucerne.
  4. Repeat the first three layers again twice, soaking each layer as you go.
  5. Add a final layer of loose straw about the thickness of your hand length.
  6. Make a small mound of compost on top of the layers for each plant.
  7. Plant seedlings – one in each compost pile. The best plants to use are potatoes or shallow rooted plants like brassica’s or lettuces.
  8. Water the finished garden well, then water each day for the first week.

In time the hay, straw and paper will break down into a dark, fluffy, light compost soil.

Growing potatoes as your first crop

To plant place your seed potatoes about 30cm apart in rows between the second and third groups of layers in your new no-dig garden. This ensures the potatoes will not be affected by direct sunlight. You won’t need to add mounds of compost on top of final layer of straw.

This is a great way to introduce children to growing vegetables & herbs. In the second season of your no-dig garden you can grow fruits like strawberries, yum!

Additional information and instructions available from Gardening Australia and Very Edible Gardens.

- Marta Lett

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Taking the grey out of greywater

Steplight recently conducted a sustainability workshop on greywater for Liverpool City Council. Marta Lett shares some key points on the topic here…

What is greywater?

Greywater is wastewater from household areas including showers, baths, basins, sinks, washing machines and dishwashers. Reusing greywater can save up to 50,000 litres of drinking water per household per year. Reusing greywater has health implications for ourselves and the environment. Following a few simple steps will keep your families safe and your garden soils healthy.

The following do’s and don’ts of greywater reuse are adapted from NSW Health, Sydney Water and the Australian Technology Association resources.

Do’s and don’ts of greywater use

  • Wash your hands after watering with greywater
  • Use garden-friendly cleaning products that are biodegradable and low in sodium and phosphorous
  • Pipe greywater underground or under mulch to water your garden
  • Irrigate your ornamentals and orchards, making sure greywater is not in direct contact with fruit
  • Regularly check your greywater system is working properly
  • Divert greywater to the sewer during wet periods
  • Stop using greywater if someone in the household is sick
  • Don’t use greywater that has disinfectants and bleaches in it
  • Don’t store untreated greywater for more than 24 hours
  • Don’t use greywater to water vegetables and herbs that are to be eaten raw or partly cooked
  • Don’t use greywater sourced from washing nappies or soiled clothes
  • Don’t use greywater from kitchens, unless it has been treated
  • Don’t let greywater leave your property
  • Don’t use greywater that is still hot as it will kill beneficial organisms in the soil
  • Don’t spray or hose greywater.

What you put in water has an environmental effect on where the wastewater ends up (such as backyards). The chemicals in greywater can alter the condition of soils by changing their chemical composition and structure. This includes changing soil pH and the ability of plants to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil. Soil pH testing kits and soil conditioners are available from any plant nurseries.

Laundry detergents

Choose laundry detergents that are low in sodium and phosphorous. Liquid laundry detergents tend to have lower sodium content than powdered laundry detergents. Lanfax Labs have done extensive testing of laundry detergent brands and types to determine levels of sodium and phosphorous content.

Soaps, shampoos

  • Avoid all hard soaps due to high salt content
  • Avoid products containing zinc
  • Choose products with low sodium and low phosphorous content
  • Choose body washes in preference to hard soaps, as there are no problems with soil pH being altered
  • Sodium level in most shampoos and conditioners is low
  • Hair conditioners tend to produce a low pH in soils and shampoos tend to produce a slightly higher pH in soils. As these are usually used together they are unlikely to alter soil pH.

Reusing greywater on our gardens can save as much as 50,000 litres of drinking water per household per year.

Greywater is the wastewater from household appliances including: Showers, Baths, Basins, Sinks, Washing Machines & Dishwashers – rinse cycle only.

Reusing greywater has health implications for ourselves and the environment so we need to follow a few simple steps to keep our families safe and our garden soils healthy.

Greywater is reused regularly in many households. These basic do’s and don’ts of greywater reuse gleaned from NSW Health, Sydney Water and the Australian Technology Association provide simple easy-to-follow steps.

Do’s and Don’ts of Greywater use

· Wash your hands after watering with greywater

· Use garden-friendly cleaning products that are biodegradable and low in sodium and phosphorous

· Do pipe greywater underground or under mulch to water your garden

· Irrigate your ornamentals and orchards, making sure greywater is not in direct contact with fruit

· Regularly check your greywater system is working properly

· Divert greywater to sewer during wet periods

· Stop using greywater if someone in the household is sick

· Don’t use greywater that has disinfectants and bleaches in it

· Don’t store untreated greywater for more than 24 hours

· Don’t use greywater to water vegetables and herbs that are to be eaten raw or partially cooked

· Don’t use greywater sourced from washing nappies or soiled clothes

· Don’t use greywater from kitchens, unless it has been treated

· Don’t let greywater leave your property

· Don’t use greywater that is still hot as it will kill beneficial organisms in the soil

· Don’t spray or hose greywater.

What we put in our water has an environmental effect where the wastewater ends up, including where we reuse greywater in our own backyards.

The elements or chemicals in greywater can alter the condition of soils by changing their chemical composition and structure, changing soil pH and the ability of plants to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil. Soil pH testing kits and soil conditioners are available from any plant nurseries.

Laundry Detergents

Choose laundry detergents that are low in sodium and phosphorous. Liquid laundry detergents tend to have lower sodium content than powdered laundry detergents. Lanfax Labs have done extensive testing of laundry detergent brands and types to determine levels of sodium and phosphorous content. www.lanfaxlabs.com.au

Soaps, Shampoos

· Avoid all hard soaps due to high salt content

· Avoid products containing zinc

· Choose products with low sodium and low phosphorous content

· Choose body washes in preference to hard soaps, as there are no problems with soil pH being altered

· Sodium level in most shampoos and conditioners is low

· Hair conditioners tend to produce a low pH in soils and shampoos tend to produce a slightly higher pH in soils. As these are usually used together they are unlikely to alter soil pH.

NSW Health ‘Greywater reuse in sewered single domestic premises’, April 2000, www.waterforlife.nsw.gov.au

Sydney Water, greywater education materials, http://www.sydneywater.com.au/Education/SecondaryTeachers/Wheredoeswatergo/reusinggreywtr.cfm

The Australian Technology Association, articles published in ReNew, www.ata.org.au

Lanfax Labs www.lanfaxlabs.com.au

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Randwick’s Home Energy Makeover Program

A successful home energy program in the Randwick local government area has sown the seeds for Steplight’s Home Sustainability service. The Randwick program was conducted during 2006-2007 and included consultations and customised Energy Action Plans being delivered to 650 households.

A new company – Steplight Pty Ltd

Steplight is a new business that specialises in helping local governments and other organisations engage their communities in ways that encourage residents to reduce their ecological footprints. It has inherited the experiences of the Randwick program and has developed a tighter and more effective program.

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